If you are a sports shooter, and need to fire-off at 9 fps for any period of time with your new camera, then it is important to know about different modes that will lower the amount of shots at that high frame-rate. This is noted in the book that came with your camera, but who actually reads every single detail of technical jargon?
I'm a Nikon shooter, so unfortunately I can't give you the Canon settings that lower this amount, but here are the settings that lower the burst quantity on a Nikon:
-Active D-Lighting. If it's on any amount your burst will be way shorter.
-Long Exposure Noise Reduction
-14-bit RAW mode as opposed to the standard 12-bit
All of these are found under the "Shooting Menu".
I'm a huge fan of Active D-Lighting, this mode brings MUCH more details into your shadow areas of the image, and expand the Dynamic Range. The D is for "Dynamic". When I am shooting ANYTHING that I won't need an extended fast frame rate, I will throw this setting on "Normal". I wouldn't mess around with the post-process D-Lighting in camera because the results are pretty much unusable and a lot of noise is introduced.
I rarely use 14-bit RAW mode, but have for Architectural shots where I needed the highest quality possible. I personally don't see much of a difference. As far as noise reduction goes, I will generally turn this on for night shots, but you will be able to perform a similar procedure in Post-Edit as well.
So there you have it, a few settings that you know will slow you down. I learned the hard way which is lucky for you because you now will not blow that important career making sequence.